![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
niori_1709Well I’m about to date this travel guide in such an obvious way that it might be cringeworthy if I ever look back at it in the future, but here we go. It’s during the Covid-19 outbreak of 2020, when we’re all supposed to be staying inside to slow the spread of the pandemic. None of us can travel at the moment, so I figured now is a good time to take a walk down memory lane so you can at least read about it.
That brings up another thing about this particular travel guide- there is going to be an insane level of tonal whiplash. Never before have I jumped between two such different tones and topics in one of these before, but I guess that’s just what happens when you’re condensing travel into days, not location/topics. Not only will I be going from dead serious to downright silly, I’ll also be doing something I haven’t done before- bringing up explicit adult content (at least in the sexy sense, since I’ve described more than enough violence). As much as I don’t feel like it most of the time, I am a grown woman and am up to exploring just about anything. As your trusty travel guide, it’s my job to let you know about these things as well. However, I’m aware not everyone is comfortable (no judgement!), so when I get to that part, I’ll give you a NSFW (not safe for work) warning. Now onwards!
Day three in Jeju was when we were going to leave the city of Seogwipo, but that wasn’t until the afternoon. We had time to kill before then, and who wanted to waste any time during such a short vacation? There was one more thing to do in Seogwipo, and that was the thing I was honestly looking forward to the most. It would take a quick trip down to the harbor to take us to our destination- Jiah, Jeju’s first submarine. Not only is it a submarine, but a submarine tour that takes you under the water. Just out past the coast of Seogwipo is Munseom Island, and around that island is the world’s largest soft coral reef. Starting in 1988, the submarine tour was the first type of its kind in Asia, and as been taking tourists 30 metres down to see the less seen underwater beauty of Jeju. I have to admit I wasn’t expecting a coral reef in Jeju. I don’t know why, but for me coral reefs are only in tropical places likes Australia. Jeju is semi-tropical. I had never seen a real coral reef in person before (the samples in aquariums don’t count), so I was excited when I found out where exactly we were going and what we were going to see.
The trip doesn’t start out on the submarine, because you need to take a small ferry out to where the sub is docked. It’s probably a ten-minute boat ride out to Munseom Island. You can either stand outside or sit below deck. There was a bit of a breeze, so my group and I sat on the uncomfortable plastic chairs. I was still able to watch the sea go by out the window. First, we passed the breakwater with those jack shaped rocks and then we were out on the open ocean. There really wasn’t anything to see, but for one amazing moment I caught sight of a jumping pod of dolphins. Since dolphins are my favourite animals, seeing them out living their best lives in the wild made me clap in excitement. Even if the rest of the submarine trip had sucked, that would have made it worthwhile. Once you’ve gotten closer to the island, the ferry stops and there it is- a smallish white submarine, submerged halfway in the water. You need to step off the boat and onto the top surface of the sub, and I admit that for a minute there I was a tad worried. It looked small, and all I could think of was all those people crammed in there, shoulder to shoulder in this tiny vehicle, knowing that it would be below the water with no escape. I’m not claustrophobic by any means, but that might still be rough. Thankfully, that wasn’t the case. Once you get inside, it’s quite roomy. There are enough seats for sixty-seven people and they’re on a long bench on either side of the sub, which means there’s a narrow isle between them so crew can go up and down. It didn’t feel crowded at all. There are port holes down the sides of the sub, and of course I parked myself right down in front of one. It gave me a great view as we descended into the depths of the south sea.
The first thing you notice is the colour of the water. It’s a green/blue, but the lack of sunlight as you go down changes it to something darker, like blots of grey have been added and mixed in. The lower you go, the shadows become darker, until the sub needs to turn on its headlights. That said, the blue/green never disappears- it’s always colouring the world outside, giving it an eerie look. Outside, the first thing you see is the fish, a few at a time, some smaller grey ones coming right up to the porthole. When you got further down, there were big schools of anchovies we dove past. While I didn’t get a glance because of where I was sitting, this is also the best place to see jaridom in the wild, which are the most common/famous fish in Jeju (not a particularly pretty fish- small and brown- but it apparently makes a few good seafood dishes. As someone who hates seafood, I’ll take their word for it).
Fish aren’t the only things you can see while in the submarine. Being so close to the island meant we could see all the rocks that made it up, which meant we could see everything the surface had to offer. There was your everyday seaweed and colourful anemones (the giant kind), along with every type of shellfish that can be found in the area. There were sea cucumbers and starfish, and though I didn’t see any, jellyfish and octopus also call the area home.
So those are the natural things you’ll see there, but what about the non-natural ones? At one point, a diver goes around the sub, waving at everyone. It was maybe five minutes and I wouldn’t even call it a demonstration. Frankly, I’m not 100% sure why it was done, and if I could have suggested taking it out, I would have. But when we got to the deepest point, that’s when we got to the high point of the trip, the part that is advertised as such. That part is passing around the only sunken ship around Jeju island. It’s a modern ship, made of metal that has rusted away at many points. There are massive, jagged holes in the sides of the ship, where fish swim in and out at their leisure. It looks small from behind the distorting glass and the lack of light can make it look more like an outline than a solid object. I had to squint at first, trying to make it out, but then the headlights were turned on, and it lays there in all its glory. I wish I could tell you some epic story about this ship, of being sunk by the enemy or being overwhelmed by a storm, but I can’t. The shipwreck is creepy and mysterious looking, but beyond that, there’s nothing exciting to tell you. It was an old ship that needed disposal, so they just decided to sink it here, off the coast of island. Nothing exciting, though that didn’t make it any less cool. I’d never seen a shipwreck in real life before, and it was as otherworldly and mysterious as I always assumed seeing one would be. I still wish there was a dramatic story to go with it, but I suppose it’s nice that the ship has found a purpose as a tourist attraction.
Those are the things you see while down there, but what about the setting of the whole adventure? What about the coral reef I was so surprised about earlier? This I will say was a tad disappointing, but that isn’t the fault of the place. In my mind, a coral reef is what you see on the National Geographic Channel when they’re doing a special on Australia. Going into any reef with the Great Barrier Reef at the front of your mind is going to cause a letdown, even if you go in 100% aware those expectations are way overblown. It’s not the reef was bad, there was just no comparing it to the biggest one in the world. There are many kinds of coral there, some stone looking and others the more spongey kind. There wasn’t anything particularly large or full of bright colours. But the coral could still be seen from the sub, if a little muted unless the light is shining on it directly. There was one area of coral that does stand out. As you’re beginning to ascend, you go up beside a wall of rocks. Covering those rocks are clumps of soft red coral. Do you remember those crystal candy sticks you could buy as a treat? That’s basically the shape of these things. The only difference is that these are soft enough that you can see the ends moving gently in the wake of the submarine. I wouldn’t exactly call it red, but more orange/red, at least from the sub. I do think it would be a neat place to scuba dive, if that’s your kind of thing. As we went up, we came to the end of our submarine tour. We surfaced where we began and then transferred back onto the ferry and then onto the shore. The round-trip experience takes around forty minutes. They even give you a free group photo to remember the experience.
After finishing our tour, we headed back to the hostel, got our stuff, and headed to the capital city of the island, Jeju City. We’d already passed through here on the first day, since this was where the boat docked. From then on, Jeju City would be our home base for our last few days of the vacation. While the city is bigger than Seogwipo, with a population of around 486, 306, it’s still not a big city in terms of Korea. I’d call it a mid-sized city myself, but a lot more closely packed together. It’s another water town, but not in the same way as Seogwipo was. That seemed more like a harbor town, and Jeju City feels more like a beach town (for all there isn’t a large beach there). The vibe is a lot more relaxed, especially down by the water, where there’s a boardwalk all around for you to stroll on. The harbor stretches on, with a stone guardrail/sea wall to keep anyone from taking a dip in the water. They made sure to keep the walking area aesthetically pleasing by decorating the walls and sidewalk with sea themes mosaics and statues mounted on top (another Haenyeo!). It was a lovely stroll, both that night and the next morning. With the sun shining down and the sound of the waves lapping against the wall, it was calming- the perfect moment on this type of summer vacation. There’s also a small park nearby if you need to take a break and sit down in the shade. There are also a lot of cafes and restaurants in the area, if you get hungry or thirsty. It was a lovely place to spend some alone time, when I needed to get away from the big group I was with for some me time.
Outside the walking area there’s a bustling social district for those who’d like to do some partying during their vacation. There are also some other natural areas to see in the city. It goes along with the mythology and history of the island. According to legend, this is the place where Jeju as a populated place began. Outside of that bit of myth, what is probably the most famous one is the story behind Dragon’s Head Rock, called Yongdaum in Korean. At the very end of the boardwalk I mentioned, you get to the rocky cliffs made of dark volcano rock (isn’t it all on a volcanic isle though?). There’s one section of rock that really stands out. When looking at it from the left a little bit away, it takes on an interesting shape. One long rock sticks up and curves, with the top jutting out like a long neck stretching out, half turned with a long face, jaws opening in a scream and a horn sticking out the back of the head. It, quite frankly, looks like the neck and head of a dragon. And I’m not the only one who thought so, given the name. It looks like a dragon because it once was. Once, long ago, a dragon lived on Jeju and that dragon got greedy. He decided to go and try and steal some jade from Hallasan, only to be shot down by the god of the mountain. The dragon fell into the sea, and as he submerged, he slowly turned to stone, sinking until only his neck and head were left out. But even that too became a stone as punishment, and if the pained looking yell left on his rocky face is an indication, it hurt. There is, of course, a scientific explanation featuring wind, waves, and time, but who cares about that when there’s a story with dragons involved (and there are a few variations of the story)? Just picture it though- an eastern dragon rising into the air, swooping down across the mountain. It would have grabbed the jade with a roar of triumph before flying away. Maybe it saw the god’s wrath coming or maybe it didn’t, but I’m sure the dragon yelped in pain as it spiraled to the sea, and had to have felt fear and regret as it lost control of its body, all for its own greed. What was the dragon’s last thought, as its mind became as solid as its body? It’s a scene out of all the fantasy movies I enjoy so much.
The rock isn’t the only area that has a tie to this story. Just a little way away, there’s Dragon Pond. This was the place where the dragon from the story lived before its ill-fated attempt at robbery. I’m not actually sure why it’s called a pond, since it is like a long and winding river. The cliffs around it were high, topped with overgrown and tangled trees, and the water was teal. It was a pretty area, with a pagoda to sit in for a rest and a long suspension bridge to cross from one side to the other. It’s a very lovely place, perfect for sleeping dragons. You can visit both these places night and day. They’re both well-lit up and any paths/roads are well kept. I originally walked around by myself during the day and at night I had a guided tour. The owner of the hostel I was staying at (it has sadly closed since then, otherwise I’d recommend it with five stars) offered a free walking tour of the area. He was the one who told me the legends about the place. He was a great storyteller and made it even more fascinating. I was so lucky to have found such a great hostel owner. That’s one of the best things about a lot of hostels in general- the smaller ones have a personal touch and can often help you with a lot of your travel. We also just walked around the area aimlessly and stumbled across a huge group gathering in the park. There was a big screen behind a stage where people were singing. The people who were in the crowd were all wearing yellow vests. They were chanting and dancing, and I had no idea why. My guide told me it was to protest a US military base being built on Jeju and said I should get up and dance with them, even if I had no stake in the game. I’m me, so you bet I joined the crowd and followed along. I danced for awhile and then we went back to the hostel. It was the most fun and lightest protests I’ve ever seen (though the base did eventually go through, FYI).
For all that particular protest was a good time, Jeju has not always been that way. In fact, there’s one very brutal and bloody period in Jeju’s recent history. That was the Jeju uprising and massacre that went on from 1948-1949. From the words I just used, I feel I don’t need to warn you that things are about to get dark. I’ll warn you anyway. First, we need to take a look at the social situation in Korea post 1945 and the end of WWII. After the defeat of Japan, Korea was divided into the Soviet controlled north and the US occupied south. Korea had little to do with this decision, and people were unhappy. Down on Jeju, there was a large group of communist and communist supporters were opposed to the division in general, but also the fact that the US had taken military control over the south by installing a military dictator. They protested and there were outbreaks of violence between the protesters and security forces. Then things went very, very bad when the ‘president’ declared martial law. He took it a step further and called for a ‘campaign of eradication’ to anyone who was in any way suspected of having communist ties. It’s a terrible fact that when some people are given carte blanche to kill whoever they can get away with calling ‘suspicious’, lots of people die. This went on until the Korean War broke out, and then it got so much worse for the people of Jeju (so much worse that it prompted protests in another city on the mainland when word got out). This is when it went from a violent uprising to a massacre. Those people suspected of Communism who survived the uprising, did not survive this. By then, South Korean forces were killing people just to make sure. There were war crimes, mostly against civilians by pro-government forces. 10% of Jeju’s population was killed and even more got on boats and fled to Japan, who had been their hated enemy less than a decade before. People who couldn’t get away were forced to hide. Not only families, but entire villages- there’s one story of a village who hid in a cave for sixty days in order to escape the military who was ready to kill people on sight.
This was a horrific example of state sanctioned mass violence, and one that I could go on about, filling in more statistics and specific experiences, but I’m not here to make you lose all faith in humanity. The thing about every place, even a paradise like Jeju, is it has some darkness in its history. I’m not only telling it here because I always think that you should know these things, but because it’s not something you’re going to find much information while on the island, as far as I could see. Of course, the dictatorship/leadership kept the massacre and rebellion hidden for as long as they could, like authoritarian governments everywhere. There wasn’t even an apology for the massacre until 2006, and a lot of people outside Jeju don’t know about it. The only reason I even learned anything about it was because I read a small paragraph in a guidebook. That of course sent me on a depressing internet rabbit hole. That’s why I decided to add this history into my travel guide even though I didn’t visit any specific sites related to the events (as far as I know). People need to know the history, good and bad, of the places they visit. It’s part of what being a good traveler means, understanding the place you’re experiencing. And to keeping the memory of all those people who died in the back of your mind while you enjoy the pristine beaches and beautiful views.
And now, there is no segue for this. There is a lack of a decent way to transition on from talking about Jeju’s dark history to how I spent the late afternoon/evening of day three. It’s the complete opposite of all of that- it’s fun, silly, and completely uncomplicated. This is where my NSFW warning comes in. Again, in case you missed the last sentence, adult content incoming. This is because the place I went to was Loveland, which is a sexual theme park. You read that right- a theme park (more of an art park) dedicated to sex in all its forms. Now a note on terms- I find sexual euphemisms annoying and am going to be using your more biological terms in this guide. I’m in no way going to be vulgar, since there’s a time and place for that and that’s a good bodice ripper romance and this isn’t one of those. So there’s your final warning and here we go.
The park is one that isn’t just supposed to be titillating (though it is that), but there to provide accurate information and lessons about sex and sexual activity. I’m not a sexologist so I can’t confirm that everything is accurate, but I can agree with its mission statement- breaking taboos about sex in a highly conservative and Confucian society- is being met. It’s meant to show that sex isn’t bad, originally to teach newlyweds what exactly what they were getting into and did it in a surprisingly tasteful way. For all that it’s sexy and can be funny, the artwork never seems trashy. It was a fine balance that the artists, students from Hongik University, managed beautifully.
Before anyone gets up in arms, you need to be at least eighteen in order to enter the park. If you happen to have anyone younger than that in your party, there’s a play/rest area close to the ticket booth where they can stay for the forty-fifty minutes it takes to get through Loveland. Surprisingly, the crowds inside were a very different mix. There were groups like mine, a mixed group of friends there to giggle. There were many couples, younger and older, who were holding hands as they walked through. Then there were smaller single-sex groups of older people, who were clearly having a blast and taking pictures in the silliest poses. Everyone looked to be having a good time and not showing an ounce of shame. Given the way the world can shy away from sex, it was a really refreshing place to be.
From the moment you get to Loveland, they let you know what you’re getting into- the brochure/map is in the shape of a woman’s breasts from the side, nipples and all. They then lull you into a bit of a false sense of security. The entrance is behind a huge ivy-covered wall, with heart decorations all over it. They’re very pretty! Some have designs on them, and others were just mixing of colours. Some were upside down, others sideways. There were big ones and small ones. They were really cute! Then you turn the corner and BAM! A giant marble penis statue right there in the middle of the plaza. That would not be that last penis of the night. There are phallus statues everywhere, big, small, made into seating areas, the works. You can pose with them, sit on them, whatever your desires. The signs pointing the way through the park are penis shaped. If you are a fan of the penis, this is the place for you. Go wild.
It’s not just random genitalia that the park has to offer. Most of the statues are of people, some alone and others with people together. The first large statue is a woman alone, back arched and pleasure stark on her face as she takes care of herself, cast in bronze. There’s a lot of be said about how nude women are seen and portrayed in art, how a lot of the time it’s meant to be sexy for the male gaze. I don’t get that with the exhibits here, especially this one. It’s still sexy as hell, but this statue is all about depicting a woman’s self-pleasure. The fact that the statue looks so realistic only makes this more obvious.
Some of the other statues are a bit more hit or miss. Some have both men and women together, giving a three-dimensional version of the Kama Sutra. There is a lot of bendiness involved. Some aren’t even completely undressed, only innocently kissing. Romance and sex can go together, as this place is trying to remind us all. Those are the classiest ones. There are some…less than classy ones. They tend to be the ones where a statue is positioned in such a way that it appears they’re just waiting for a partner to join to get started. The fact it’s both men and women who are portrayed this way, makes it way less creepy than it could be. My favourite set of statues weren’t even sexual. There are three stone ladies sitting on the roof of the cafe/gift store. They’re naked, just sitting there and relaxing. One of the women is pointing something out and the other two are smiling at whatever she’s pointing at. There is nothing sexual about them. It’s just a few friends hanging out and laughing while they people gaze...and they just happen to have no clothes on. It’s my favourite because the simplicity, realism (these three statues look like real women with average body sizes), and as a showcase that nudity doesn’t have to be sexual. A great reminder of a fact some people clutch their pearls instead of acknowledging.
Inside the building with the ladies is a gift store/adult store (yep, that kind of adult store) with a café area inside. You can buy little penis shaped cakes. Because of course you can. Inside the building is also another exhibit hall. This one isn’t statues, but small dioramas. The characters and scenes are all made with traditional Korean paper. The little people are basically ones you could buy as paper dolls in a traditional market…if it wasn’t for the poses they were in. They’re all like little glances into a paused scene from a porn- there’s public sex, voyeurism, outside sex, trying to sneak sex while your family is asleep, and many, many more. If it’s a porn trope, it’s there. I’m not going to lie- I found this whole section hilarious. If you’ve ever seen traditional Korean paper, you know it can rip fairly easily. The fact that so much craft and effort went into creating these small sex scenes made me giggle, but you know what? Sex should be fun and funny. It doesn’t need to be serious, thoughtful, or thought provoking- you can just have fun here. That’s a perfectly acceptable thing to get out of Loveland.
The one thing I noticed about Loveland is that it is all heteronormative. While some gender roles are turned around and played with in some of the exhibits, it’s all straight people. I’m not complaining, merely pointing out that a place that celebrates love and sex leaves out an entire demographic. I’d be shocked if they had shown anything non-straight, to be honest, given Korea is an insanely conservative society. It’s just an observation I made while going through the park. This fact in no way stopped me from having a blast at Loveland. I know by it’s very nature it’s not a place for everyone, but if it is something you think you’d get a kick out of it, I highly recommend taking an hour or two to make time for it if you’re ever in Jeju. And you never know- you just might learn something new.
Day three of being in Jeju was jampacked and exhausting, so when the time came to head back to my hostel for the night, I was more than ready. I had another full day planned for the next day, so I had to make sure I got my full eight(ish) hours of sleep. I ended my day on a highpoint, and this was my overall favourite day in Jeju. It had a little bit of everything, and it appealed to every part of my traveler’s heart.
That brings up another thing about this particular travel guide- there is going to be an insane level of tonal whiplash. Never before have I jumped between two such different tones and topics in one of these before, but I guess that’s just what happens when you’re condensing travel into days, not location/topics. Not only will I be going from dead serious to downright silly, I’ll also be doing something I haven’t done before- bringing up explicit adult content (at least in the sexy sense, since I’ve described more than enough violence). As much as I don’t feel like it most of the time, I am a grown woman and am up to exploring just about anything. As your trusty travel guide, it’s my job to let you know about these things as well. However, I’m aware not everyone is comfortable (no judgement!), so when I get to that part, I’ll give you a NSFW (not safe for work) warning. Now onwards!
Day three in Jeju was when we were going to leave the city of Seogwipo, but that wasn’t until the afternoon. We had time to kill before then, and who wanted to waste any time during such a short vacation? There was one more thing to do in Seogwipo, and that was the thing I was honestly looking forward to the most. It would take a quick trip down to the harbor to take us to our destination- Jiah, Jeju’s first submarine. Not only is it a submarine, but a submarine tour that takes you under the water. Just out past the coast of Seogwipo is Munseom Island, and around that island is the world’s largest soft coral reef. Starting in 1988, the submarine tour was the first type of its kind in Asia, and as been taking tourists 30 metres down to see the less seen underwater beauty of Jeju. I have to admit I wasn’t expecting a coral reef in Jeju. I don’t know why, but for me coral reefs are only in tropical places likes Australia. Jeju is semi-tropical. I had never seen a real coral reef in person before (the samples in aquariums don’t count), so I was excited when I found out where exactly we were going and what we were going to see.
The trip doesn’t start out on the submarine, because you need to take a small ferry out to where the sub is docked. It’s probably a ten-minute boat ride out to Munseom Island. You can either stand outside or sit below deck. There was a bit of a breeze, so my group and I sat on the uncomfortable plastic chairs. I was still able to watch the sea go by out the window. First, we passed the breakwater with those jack shaped rocks and then we were out on the open ocean. There really wasn’t anything to see, but for one amazing moment I caught sight of a jumping pod of dolphins. Since dolphins are my favourite animals, seeing them out living their best lives in the wild made me clap in excitement. Even if the rest of the submarine trip had sucked, that would have made it worthwhile. Once you’ve gotten closer to the island, the ferry stops and there it is- a smallish white submarine, submerged halfway in the water. You need to step off the boat and onto the top surface of the sub, and I admit that for a minute there I was a tad worried. It looked small, and all I could think of was all those people crammed in there, shoulder to shoulder in this tiny vehicle, knowing that it would be below the water with no escape. I’m not claustrophobic by any means, but that might still be rough. Thankfully, that wasn’t the case. Once you get inside, it’s quite roomy. There are enough seats for sixty-seven people and they’re on a long bench on either side of the sub, which means there’s a narrow isle between them so crew can go up and down. It didn’t feel crowded at all. There are port holes down the sides of the sub, and of course I parked myself right down in front of one. It gave me a great view as we descended into the depths of the south sea.
The first thing you notice is the colour of the water. It’s a green/blue, but the lack of sunlight as you go down changes it to something darker, like blots of grey have been added and mixed in. The lower you go, the shadows become darker, until the sub needs to turn on its headlights. That said, the blue/green never disappears- it’s always colouring the world outside, giving it an eerie look. Outside, the first thing you see is the fish, a few at a time, some smaller grey ones coming right up to the porthole. When you got further down, there were big schools of anchovies we dove past. While I didn’t get a glance because of where I was sitting, this is also the best place to see jaridom in the wild, which are the most common/famous fish in Jeju (not a particularly pretty fish- small and brown- but it apparently makes a few good seafood dishes. As someone who hates seafood, I’ll take their word for it).
Fish aren’t the only things you can see while in the submarine. Being so close to the island meant we could see all the rocks that made it up, which meant we could see everything the surface had to offer. There was your everyday seaweed and colourful anemones (the giant kind), along with every type of shellfish that can be found in the area. There were sea cucumbers and starfish, and though I didn’t see any, jellyfish and octopus also call the area home.
So those are the natural things you’ll see there, but what about the non-natural ones? At one point, a diver goes around the sub, waving at everyone. It was maybe five minutes and I wouldn’t even call it a demonstration. Frankly, I’m not 100% sure why it was done, and if I could have suggested taking it out, I would have. But when we got to the deepest point, that’s when we got to the high point of the trip, the part that is advertised as such. That part is passing around the only sunken ship around Jeju island. It’s a modern ship, made of metal that has rusted away at many points. There are massive, jagged holes in the sides of the ship, where fish swim in and out at their leisure. It looks small from behind the distorting glass and the lack of light can make it look more like an outline than a solid object. I had to squint at first, trying to make it out, but then the headlights were turned on, and it lays there in all its glory. I wish I could tell you some epic story about this ship, of being sunk by the enemy or being overwhelmed by a storm, but I can’t. The shipwreck is creepy and mysterious looking, but beyond that, there’s nothing exciting to tell you. It was an old ship that needed disposal, so they just decided to sink it here, off the coast of island. Nothing exciting, though that didn’t make it any less cool. I’d never seen a shipwreck in real life before, and it was as otherworldly and mysterious as I always assumed seeing one would be. I still wish there was a dramatic story to go with it, but I suppose it’s nice that the ship has found a purpose as a tourist attraction.
Those are the things you see while down there, but what about the setting of the whole adventure? What about the coral reef I was so surprised about earlier? This I will say was a tad disappointing, but that isn’t the fault of the place. In my mind, a coral reef is what you see on the National Geographic Channel when they’re doing a special on Australia. Going into any reef with the Great Barrier Reef at the front of your mind is going to cause a letdown, even if you go in 100% aware those expectations are way overblown. It’s not the reef was bad, there was just no comparing it to the biggest one in the world. There are many kinds of coral there, some stone looking and others the more spongey kind. There wasn’t anything particularly large or full of bright colours. But the coral could still be seen from the sub, if a little muted unless the light is shining on it directly. There was one area of coral that does stand out. As you’re beginning to ascend, you go up beside a wall of rocks. Covering those rocks are clumps of soft red coral. Do you remember those crystal candy sticks you could buy as a treat? That’s basically the shape of these things. The only difference is that these are soft enough that you can see the ends moving gently in the wake of the submarine. I wouldn’t exactly call it red, but more orange/red, at least from the sub. I do think it would be a neat place to scuba dive, if that’s your kind of thing. As we went up, we came to the end of our submarine tour. We surfaced where we began and then transferred back onto the ferry and then onto the shore. The round-trip experience takes around forty minutes. They even give you a free group photo to remember the experience.
After finishing our tour, we headed back to the hostel, got our stuff, and headed to the capital city of the island, Jeju City. We’d already passed through here on the first day, since this was where the boat docked. From then on, Jeju City would be our home base for our last few days of the vacation. While the city is bigger than Seogwipo, with a population of around 486, 306, it’s still not a big city in terms of Korea. I’d call it a mid-sized city myself, but a lot more closely packed together. It’s another water town, but not in the same way as Seogwipo was. That seemed more like a harbor town, and Jeju City feels more like a beach town (for all there isn’t a large beach there). The vibe is a lot more relaxed, especially down by the water, where there’s a boardwalk all around for you to stroll on. The harbor stretches on, with a stone guardrail/sea wall to keep anyone from taking a dip in the water. They made sure to keep the walking area aesthetically pleasing by decorating the walls and sidewalk with sea themes mosaics and statues mounted on top (another Haenyeo!). It was a lovely stroll, both that night and the next morning. With the sun shining down and the sound of the waves lapping against the wall, it was calming- the perfect moment on this type of summer vacation. There’s also a small park nearby if you need to take a break and sit down in the shade. There are also a lot of cafes and restaurants in the area, if you get hungry or thirsty. It was a lovely place to spend some alone time, when I needed to get away from the big group I was with for some me time.
Outside the walking area there’s a bustling social district for those who’d like to do some partying during their vacation. There are also some other natural areas to see in the city. It goes along with the mythology and history of the island. According to legend, this is the place where Jeju as a populated place began. Outside of that bit of myth, what is probably the most famous one is the story behind Dragon’s Head Rock, called Yongdaum in Korean. At the very end of the boardwalk I mentioned, you get to the rocky cliffs made of dark volcano rock (isn’t it all on a volcanic isle though?). There’s one section of rock that really stands out. When looking at it from the left a little bit away, it takes on an interesting shape. One long rock sticks up and curves, with the top jutting out like a long neck stretching out, half turned with a long face, jaws opening in a scream and a horn sticking out the back of the head. It, quite frankly, looks like the neck and head of a dragon. And I’m not the only one who thought so, given the name. It looks like a dragon because it once was. Once, long ago, a dragon lived on Jeju and that dragon got greedy. He decided to go and try and steal some jade from Hallasan, only to be shot down by the god of the mountain. The dragon fell into the sea, and as he submerged, he slowly turned to stone, sinking until only his neck and head were left out. But even that too became a stone as punishment, and if the pained looking yell left on his rocky face is an indication, it hurt. There is, of course, a scientific explanation featuring wind, waves, and time, but who cares about that when there’s a story with dragons involved (and there are a few variations of the story)? Just picture it though- an eastern dragon rising into the air, swooping down across the mountain. It would have grabbed the jade with a roar of triumph before flying away. Maybe it saw the god’s wrath coming or maybe it didn’t, but I’m sure the dragon yelped in pain as it spiraled to the sea, and had to have felt fear and regret as it lost control of its body, all for its own greed. What was the dragon’s last thought, as its mind became as solid as its body? It’s a scene out of all the fantasy movies I enjoy so much.
The rock isn’t the only area that has a tie to this story. Just a little way away, there’s Dragon Pond. This was the place where the dragon from the story lived before its ill-fated attempt at robbery. I’m not actually sure why it’s called a pond, since it is like a long and winding river. The cliffs around it were high, topped with overgrown and tangled trees, and the water was teal. It was a pretty area, with a pagoda to sit in for a rest and a long suspension bridge to cross from one side to the other. It’s a very lovely place, perfect for sleeping dragons. You can visit both these places night and day. They’re both well-lit up and any paths/roads are well kept. I originally walked around by myself during the day and at night I had a guided tour. The owner of the hostel I was staying at (it has sadly closed since then, otherwise I’d recommend it with five stars) offered a free walking tour of the area. He was the one who told me the legends about the place. He was a great storyteller and made it even more fascinating. I was so lucky to have found such a great hostel owner. That’s one of the best things about a lot of hostels in general- the smaller ones have a personal touch and can often help you with a lot of your travel. We also just walked around the area aimlessly and stumbled across a huge group gathering in the park. There was a big screen behind a stage where people were singing. The people who were in the crowd were all wearing yellow vests. They were chanting and dancing, and I had no idea why. My guide told me it was to protest a US military base being built on Jeju and said I should get up and dance with them, even if I had no stake in the game. I’m me, so you bet I joined the crowd and followed along. I danced for awhile and then we went back to the hostel. It was the most fun and lightest protests I’ve ever seen (though the base did eventually go through, FYI).
For all that particular protest was a good time, Jeju has not always been that way. In fact, there’s one very brutal and bloody period in Jeju’s recent history. That was the Jeju uprising and massacre that went on from 1948-1949. From the words I just used, I feel I don’t need to warn you that things are about to get dark. I’ll warn you anyway. First, we need to take a look at the social situation in Korea post 1945 and the end of WWII. After the defeat of Japan, Korea was divided into the Soviet controlled north and the US occupied south. Korea had little to do with this decision, and people were unhappy. Down on Jeju, there was a large group of communist and communist supporters were opposed to the division in general, but also the fact that the US had taken military control over the south by installing a military dictator. They protested and there were outbreaks of violence between the protesters and security forces. Then things went very, very bad when the ‘president’ declared martial law. He took it a step further and called for a ‘campaign of eradication’ to anyone who was in any way suspected of having communist ties. It’s a terrible fact that when some people are given carte blanche to kill whoever they can get away with calling ‘suspicious’, lots of people die. This went on until the Korean War broke out, and then it got so much worse for the people of Jeju (so much worse that it prompted protests in another city on the mainland when word got out). This is when it went from a violent uprising to a massacre. Those people suspected of Communism who survived the uprising, did not survive this. By then, South Korean forces were killing people just to make sure. There were war crimes, mostly against civilians by pro-government forces. 10% of Jeju’s population was killed and even more got on boats and fled to Japan, who had been their hated enemy less than a decade before. People who couldn’t get away were forced to hide. Not only families, but entire villages- there’s one story of a village who hid in a cave for sixty days in order to escape the military who was ready to kill people on sight.
This was a horrific example of state sanctioned mass violence, and one that I could go on about, filling in more statistics and specific experiences, but I’m not here to make you lose all faith in humanity. The thing about every place, even a paradise like Jeju, is it has some darkness in its history. I’m not only telling it here because I always think that you should know these things, but because it’s not something you’re going to find much information while on the island, as far as I could see. Of course, the dictatorship/leadership kept the massacre and rebellion hidden for as long as they could, like authoritarian governments everywhere. There wasn’t even an apology for the massacre until 2006, and a lot of people outside Jeju don’t know about it. The only reason I even learned anything about it was because I read a small paragraph in a guidebook. That of course sent me on a depressing internet rabbit hole. That’s why I decided to add this history into my travel guide even though I didn’t visit any specific sites related to the events (as far as I know). People need to know the history, good and bad, of the places they visit. It’s part of what being a good traveler means, understanding the place you’re experiencing. And to keeping the memory of all those people who died in the back of your mind while you enjoy the pristine beaches and beautiful views.
And now, there is no segue for this. There is a lack of a decent way to transition on from talking about Jeju’s dark history to how I spent the late afternoon/evening of day three. It’s the complete opposite of all of that- it’s fun, silly, and completely uncomplicated. This is where my NSFW warning comes in. Again, in case you missed the last sentence, adult content incoming. This is because the place I went to was Loveland, which is a sexual theme park. You read that right- a theme park (more of an art park) dedicated to sex in all its forms. Now a note on terms- I find sexual euphemisms annoying and am going to be using your more biological terms in this guide. I’m in no way going to be vulgar, since there’s a time and place for that and that’s a good bodice ripper romance and this isn’t one of those. So there’s your final warning and here we go.
The park is one that isn’t just supposed to be titillating (though it is that), but there to provide accurate information and lessons about sex and sexual activity. I’m not a sexologist so I can’t confirm that everything is accurate, but I can agree with its mission statement- breaking taboos about sex in a highly conservative and Confucian society- is being met. It’s meant to show that sex isn’t bad, originally to teach newlyweds what exactly what they were getting into and did it in a surprisingly tasteful way. For all that it’s sexy and can be funny, the artwork never seems trashy. It was a fine balance that the artists, students from Hongik University, managed beautifully.
Before anyone gets up in arms, you need to be at least eighteen in order to enter the park. If you happen to have anyone younger than that in your party, there’s a play/rest area close to the ticket booth where they can stay for the forty-fifty minutes it takes to get through Loveland. Surprisingly, the crowds inside were a very different mix. There were groups like mine, a mixed group of friends there to giggle. There were many couples, younger and older, who were holding hands as they walked through. Then there were smaller single-sex groups of older people, who were clearly having a blast and taking pictures in the silliest poses. Everyone looked to be having a good time and not showing an ounce of shame. Given the way the world can shy away from sex, it was a really refreshing place to be.
From the moment you get to Loveland, they let you know what you’re getting into- the brochure/map is in the shape of a woman’s breasts from the side, nipples and all. They then lull you into a bit of a false sense of security. The entrance is behind a huge ivy-covered wall, with heart decorations all over it. They’re very pretty! Some have designs on them, and others were just mixing of colours. Some were upside down, others sideways. There were big ones and small ones. They were really cute! Then you turn the corner and BAM! A giant marble penis statue right there in the middle of the plaza. That would not be that last penis of the night. There are phallus statues everywhere, big, small, made into seating areas, the works. You can pose with them, sit on them, whatever your desires. The signs pointing the way through the park are penis shaped. If you are a fan of the penis, this is the place for you. Go wild.
It’s not just random genitalia that the park has to offer. Most of the statues are of people, some alone and others with people together. The first large statue is a woman alone, back arched and pleasure stark on her face as she takes care of herself, cast in bronze. There’s a lot of be said about how nude women are seen and portrayed in art, how a lot of the time it’s meant to be sexy for the male gaze. I don’t get that with the exhibits here, especially this one. It’s still sexy as hell, but this statue is all about depicting a woman’s self-pleasure. The fact that the statue looks so realistic only makes this more obvious.
Some of the other statues are a bit more hit or miss. Some have both men and women together, giving a three-dimensional version of the Kama Sutra. There is a lot of bendiness involved. Some aren’t even completely undressed, only innocently kissing. Romance and sex can go together, as this place is trying to remind us all. Those are the classiest ones. There are some…less than classy ones. They tend to be the ones where a statue is positioned in such a way that it appears they’re just waiting for a partner to join to get started. The fact it’s both men and women who are portrayed this way, makes it way less creepy than it could be. My favourite set of statues weren’t even sexual. There are three stone ladies sitting on the roof of the cafe/gift store. They’re naked, just sitting there and relaxing. One of the women is pointing something out and the other two are smiling at whatever she’s pointing at. There is nothing sexual about them. It’s just a few friends hanging out and laughing while they people gaze...and they just happen to have no clothes on. It’s my favourite because the simplicity, realism (these three statues look like real women with average body sizes), and as a showcase that nudity doesn’t have to be sexual. A great reminder of a fact some people clutch their pearls instead of acknowledging.
Inside the building with the ladies is a gift store/adult store (yep, that kind of adult store) with a café area inside. You can buy little penis shaped cakes. Because of course you can. Inside the building is also another exhibit hall. This one isn’t statues, but small dioramas. The characters and scenes are all made with traditional Korean paper. The little people are basically ones you could buy as paper dolls in a traditional market…if it wasn’t for the poses they were in. They’re all like little glances into a paused scene from a porn- there’s public sex, voyeurism, outside sex, trying to sneak sex while your family is asleep, and many, many more. If it’s a porn trope, it’s there. I’m not going to lie- I found this whole section hilarious. If you’ve ever seen traditional Korean paper, you know it can rip fairly easily. The fact that so much craft and effort went into creating these small sex scenes made me giggle, but you know what? Sex should be fun and funny. It doesn’t need to be serious, thoughtful, or thought provoking- you can just have fun here. That’s a perfectly acceptable thing to get out of Loveland.
The one thing I noticed about Loveland is that it is all heteronormative. While some gender roles are turned around and played with in some of the exhibits, it’s all straight people. I’m not complaining, merely pointing out that a place that celebrates love and sex leaves out an entire demographic. I’d be shocked if they had shown anything non-straight, to be honest, given Korea is an insanely conservative society. It’s just an observation I made while going through the park. This fact in no way stopped me from having a blast at Loveland. I know by it’s very nature it’s not a place for everyone, but if it is something you think you’d get a kick out of it, I highly recommend taking an hour or two to make time for it if you’re ever in Jeju. And you never know- you just might learn something new.
Day three of being in Jeju was jampacked and exhausting, so when the time came to head back to my hostel for the night, I was more than ready. I had another full day planned for the next day, so I had to make sure I got my full eight(ish) hours of sleep. I ended my day on a highpoint, and this was my overall favourite day in Jeju. It had a little bit of everything, and it appealed to every part of my traveler’s heart.
