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niori_1709Day two of my trip began nice and early, because we had some traveling to do. Our first destination on the first full day of vacation was a couple hours away by bus, and we wanted to get there before it got to the heat of the day (we failed), because we were going to do one of the most popular activities in Jeju- hiking.
Hallasan is Korea’s highest mountain and one of the three ancient (dormant) volcanoes on the Korean peninsula (and territories). Like every good mountain, there’s a fantastical myth that tells us of its creation. The island of Jeju, the story goes, began when a giant began to pile sand in the middle of the sea. With every new skirtful of sand, the middle of the island grew taller, and then wider as sand rolled off the sides and expanded. Eventually, the sand was piled so high that the island, with Hallasan as the point of creation, in the middle. It’s not a super difficult hike up and down the mountain, and there are five trails of varying difficulty to choose from. You can choose if you’d like to climb for ten hours, two hours, and times in between. At the top of the mountain there is a crater that has its very own lake. Because of time restraints, I’ve never been able to hike Hallasan, though I do plan to take another trip to the island to knock it off my to-do list at some point.
While I haven’t gotten to Hallasan yet, I have been to Jeju’s other famous climbing spot (twice). That spot is Seongsan Ilchulbong, or Sunrise Peak. This is far from a mountain, at just 182m (597 feet) high, but it’s not the height that brings people here- it’s the view. The cliff looks over the island of Jeju and out across the ocean. One side of the cliff is climbable while all other sides end in a steep drop into the sea. The crater at the top was formed by a volcanic eruption five thousand years ago, and it’s made of black volcanic rocks that jut up in ragged, sharp edges. The top is a bowl shape. The secondary name, Sunrise Peak, is because this is considered the place to watch the sunrise of New Year’s Day (Lunar calendar version). I’ve never been there for sunrise, but the view is beautiful on a wet foggy day, so I guess it would be stunning.
I got to see Sunrise Peak both times I went to Jeju, and I only climbed it the one time. The first time I went to Jeju, I was injured. The week before, I had sprained the muscles in my foot at Mudfest, and I was still limping. There would be no hiking for me on that trip, even if my travel mates were determined to do it. Instead, I was going to be left at the bottom to wait. Thankfully, there was a small, rocky beach (that was more than a little wild looking) where there was room enough for me to take a seat and read while my friends climbed. It was a beautiful day, one perfect for just relaxing outside (much better than hiking in that heat, in my opinion). There wasn’t a cloud in the blue sky, the water was made the black, pokey rocks shimmered just a little bit, and the green on the bluff above was a stark contrast to the water and sky. It was a good couple of hours relaxing, but I was still disappointed that I couldn’t climb. That’s why, on my second trip, I made my way back to Sunrise Peak for attempt number two.
Sadly, the second time around, it was not a beautiful day. It was a damp, cool, grey day, and it was raining off and on every fifteen minutes. Temperature wise, it was much better, but then rain made it just a little more treacherous. The hike up to the top isn’t difficult, per say (and there are stairs that help you along), but it is steep. It’s also one way, up and down, so it can get crowded. On my rainy day climb there were less people, but the stairs could also be slightly more slippery. It’s more of a you might have to pick your poison type choice, if you’re limited in the time you have available to climb. I had a few hours, so climbing in the mist and drizzle it was.
The trail going up isn’t a straight one- it goes up in a kind of vaguely curved shape. There’s a tall set of steep stairs, followed by wide corner landings, though these were just flattened out rock/gravel/dirt, not wood. They were wide enough that you could take a step off the walking path to rest, meaning you don’t have to feel rushed because you’re impeding traffic. I personally took advantage of quite a few of those rest stops. I am a big fan of landings like this, and not only to rest. When I go on hikes, I don’t want to rush. I want to go at my own pace, and not only because I want to avoid wearing myself out. I want to enjoy myself and take it all in. I now live in a city just outside Seoul- being able to enjoy nature isn’t exactly an everyday occurrence. I want to really experience it, especially the views. And man, did Sunrise Peak have a view.
When you turn around and look over the landscape in front of you, you’re seeing the seaside and the rocky, steep coast along it. There’s a small scattering of buildings, some at the base of the cliff (many of them seafood restaurants, full of fresh from the sea life and getting nowhere near my mouth) and others vaguely village shaped far away. If you look to your far side, you see kilometers of endless sea. When I was up there, it was windy and choppy, dark grey with the white streaks where the waves broke. As much as the climbing would have been better with nicer weather, I must admit the rough weather sea aesthetic was so appealing to look over. Aesthetic will get me every time. I’m a sucker for setting the scene in an interesting way, be it in my fiction or real life.
My one regret about the rough waters was that it took away the chance to see one of Jeju’s most famous sights, the Haenyeo, AKA the mermaids. I’m going to keep you in suspense about what I’m talking about to give you some background about the traditional Jeju culture. Since Jeju wasn’t already part of Korea and was kept separate from the mainland even when it was taken over (for a long time, people from Jeju weren’t allowed to leave the island area and were barred from mainland Korea). Korea controlled it, and did send people there to change things up, but it’s not easy to do away with traditional culture (and thank God for that in most cases), and a lot of Jeju’s was different. One of the main ways was through gender roles. While traditional Korea was extremely Confucius in nature (rigid gender roles, where men are the dominant and women had to be extremely subservient), Jeju was extremely female driven. Compared to many places, even today, was more egalitarian. In many ways, it was downright matriarchal (not that I’m claiming a sexism free society by any means). The main shamanic religious traditions (which are no longer at the top, but still very popular with Jeju natives- shrines still dot the island) was very female oriented. The ones who did the ceremonies and practices were priestesses. Women had a much more fluid and bendable place, which brings me back to the Haenyeo. Given this is an island, it should come as no surprise that the sea is a huge part of the economy. Along with fishing, there were divers who went for the shellfish (predominately abalone). It can be a dangerous job, with tides and currents as they are, and divers were originally men. After Korea took over, they started taxing the catch these men took in. As with every person ever, these guys hated paying taxes and wanted to find ways out of it. It took a long time to figure out, but eventually a clever soul realized that the language of the law said it would only tax what men brought in. The solution? Bring on the female divers of Jeju, the Haenyeo.
So, these women were (and are) amazing. In the beginning, they were dropped off in the water wearing only thin cotton. These days, they have rubber wet suits, a scuba mask, and flippers. In both times, that’s all they had, save the basket they took down with them. They have no air tanks of any kind. These women must be able to hold their breath while they scavenge through the rocks for shells. It’s because of these women that the economy was female driven for a long time and why gender roles pulled a 180 degree (men stayed home with the kids while the wives went out to work as breadwinners). While the economy (and gender politics) have changed all these years later, the mermaids are still out there diving. The biggest difference now? There are far fewer now (other, less physically dangerous, opportunities are easily available), and most of them are elderly. As a few years ago, the oldest of the divers was ninety (and may now be retired), and fifty tends to be on the lower end. Just think of that- these little old ladies are out there every day the sea is calm, free diving in order to make ends meet. They are swimming constantly, straining their lungs and risking every sea-based disaster. These are probably some of the most badass people I have ever heard of, and I am disappointed that I didn’t catch a glimpse of them (they do dive around Sunrise Peak, but don’t risk rough waves), especially since it’s a dying art. Fewer and fewer young women are following in their matriarchs’ flippers, so as these current Haenyeo have to retire their wet suits, it looks like the profession will fade away into memory (and maybe even legend, if I’m being as over dramatic as usual). It’s a reality happening all over traditional professions such as this, and it’s more than a little sad. While I will always support someone’s desire to buck tradition and make their own path, that doesn’t mean I can’t accept that something of worth -something that adds to the wonderful diversity of our world- is being lost. Before I end on that depressing note, let’s turn it around for now. For now, these mermaids are going strong out there, making their living on the sea, adding to Jeju’s history of strong women. May we all be so amazing when we reach their age.
I don’t have a great segue to get back on topic of the hike itself, so let’s just awkwardly do that. At the time I climbed, I’d say I was in upper-middle shape, and I was able to climb to the top in around an hour. On my scale, I’d say Sunrise Peak is about medium difficulty. Not exactly a walk in the park, but not something you need actual training for. When you get to the top, there’s another small, shallow crater, but there’s not a lot you can explore. You’re not allowed to walk around the crater or rim but are instead restricted to a large fenced in deck. It’s mostly about the view (as I’ve previously established, it’s totally a worthwhile view), though there is also a signpost at the top that names the peak and the height, perfect for photos, if that’s your thing (and it’s totally my thing). I stayed up there for maybe fifteen minutes. I sat down for a bit to rest, drink some water, and then spent some time leaning over the fence and looking at the water, before I had to head back down to catch the bus. The trip down took about half an hour to twenty-five minutes without as many breaks.
The question to ask now is was Sunrise Peak worth the hype? I think it was. It was great exercise that came with excellent scenery. It was a good trip, especially in the sun, and I agree with the tourism board’s decision to use Sunrise Peak in all their advertising (including their bid for Jeju to be one of the New Seven Wonders of the World).
With that, we’re going to jump back to that sunny day on my first trip. After my friends finished their hike and met me down at the bottom, we jumped on a bus to head to our next location. About a twenty-minute drive along the coast we got off in order to catch a ferry to Udo Island. Udo Island is this tiny island just off the coast (it’s a quick ten to fifteen minute trip on the ferry). It’s hilly, with another rocky shore surrounded by nice sandy beaches. It’s not insanely populated, but there are people that live there, and a lot of them deal with the tourists like me, who come over to the island to have some sort of good time.
I’m going to level with you- Udo was a disappointment. I wasn’t particularly keen on going in the first place, but everyone said we just had to go. I’m not sure why, when the most interesting thing about the whole place was the fact the name means ‘cow island’ because it’s shaped like a cow lying down (it made me snort, okay?). Don’t get me wrong- the parts of the island I saw were beautiful. The beach was all golden sand, perfect blue water, and an excellent place to sunbathe. However, it wasn’t any better than the other beaches I saw on Jeju. The only thing of note was there was a statue of a Haenyeo on it, which the fangirl in me squeed at, but that’s it. There were rock pools around where the ferry docked, but again, I’d end up visiting another beach a couple of days later that was the same. Don’t get me wrong- it was nice, but not worth going out of your way for.
And to be fair to Udo, the disappointment wasn’t all on it. One of the highlights of the island is renting a scooter and going around on your own to see the sights (there is a bus that also goes around). That is what we went there for, but it didn’t happen. We went to the first place and they told all of us (even the ones who had no plans to drive, like me) needed an international license. This was news to all of us, because no one had mentioned that before, so we decided to try another one. The next one wasn’t just an international license, but a Korean one. Now, don’t get me wrong- I 100% understand why they’d, at the least, request an international license. It makes sense for a safety and liability issue, and I’d prefer people with actual driving experience on the road. What gets me it that, when talking to others since then, it seems to be a crapshoot if you got IDd or not. One friend only had to show their American license, and another didn’t get asked at all. It apparently depends on the day or mood of the person you’re trying to rent from, and the lack of consistency is irritating.
Without any wheels, we just walked from the docks to the beach about ten minutes away. We stopped so we could get lunch at one of the restaurants there. While we didn’t get to go to that one, I am amused to inform you there was an Anne of Green Gables themed burger place. We stayed at the restaurant we chose for maybe an hour and then went back to catch the ferry to head to our last stop of the day, and thankfully I had a better time there than I did on Udo.
Kimnyoung Maze Park is a place I went on both my trips to Jeju. It’s a hedge maze park located on the north west side of the island, just a little inland from the coast. It’s a fairly large park, with the usual several feet tall green banks that made the twisty, turny walls. It’s 2,200 metres squared, with bridges you have to find and cross until you reach the platform that leads to the exit. There’s a bell up there to ring once you’ve reached the end to give you a sense of accomplishment, and it’s high enough that you can see the people finishing (to either taunt or motivate you, depending on the person). It’s a tough maze to get through, which isn’t surprising when you find out it was designed by a famous maze designer, named Adrian Fisher. The hedges are shaped into six symbols that represent Jeju: the shape of the island itself, a pony, a snake head, a dolmen (a traditional burial symbol), a yin yang symbol, and a ship. You obviously can’t tell as you’re running around inside, but you can make out the shapes when looking at a map (and they give you a brochure with a map when you go in, in case you just want to get out. I’m happy to report I didn’t use it).
The first time I went to the park, I only tried the maze for about ten minutes before I went back out the exit. My foot was throbbing, and I just wanted to sit. Thankfully there were plenty of places to go and do just that. There was a lovely, spacious garden with benches where you could sit, and some of the strangest hedge sculptures I’ve ever seen (I still can’t figure out what they’re meant to be). I waited there until all my friends made it out. The second time, I’m happy to report I was one of the 65% to complete the maze (the first time I was in the 30% who just gave up. Thankfully I avoided being in the 5% that had to be ‘rescued’ for being so hopefully lost). Now there are two ways to tackle a hedge maze: the first is to focus completely and keep track of every turn you make, and the second is to rush around aimlessly, hoping to get lucky. I started out being the first, eventually gave up, and fell back on the second. My wandering was pretty aimless, and I certainly didn’t win the ‘first one to ring the bell wins a prize’ competition in my group. I tried to go at it on my own, but by the time a handful of my group had gotten to the bell, I was really to combine forces with some other hapless adventurers. There were about five or six of us who came together in the middle of the maze, and without any spoken agreement, we started moving together. It didn’t take us long from there, and with only a few hints called out from one of the bridges, and we were up on that platform, ringing that bell on our own. Mission accomplished, and thus our grand hedge maze adventure came to an end. Roll credits and epic music to end the scene.
Kimnyoung Maze Park isn’t a must do in Jeju, but it was a lot of fun. If you’re there yourself, it’s maybe not your best bet, but if you’re there with a fun group of people who just want to have a silly, simple time running around, this is the place for you. It’s a good time and a bit of a challenge/competition. Oh, and it’s also a cat sanctuary, so if you’re a cat lover, you’re in luck. If I had to give a set of recommendations based on all the places I went on day two, it would go like this: Sunrise Peak is a must see, Udo is a skip it, and Kimnyoung Maze Park is a go to if you have a good group and the time.
Hallasan is Korea’s highest mountain and one of the three ancient (dormant) volcanoes on the Korean peninsula (and territories). Like every good mountain, there’s a fantastical myth that tells us of its creation. The island of Jeju, the story goes, began when a giant began to pile sand in the middle of the sea. With every new skirtful of sand, the middle of the island grew taller, and then wider as sand rolled off the sides and expanded. Eventually, the sand was piled so high that the island, with Hallasan as the point of creation, in the middle. It’s not a super difficult hike up and down the mountain, and there are five trails of varying difficulty to choose from. You can choose if you’d like to climb for ten hours, two hours, and times in between. At the top of the mountain there is a crater that has its very own lake. Because of time restraints, I’ve never been able to hike Hallasan, though I do plan to take another trip to the island to knock it off my to-do list at some point.
While I haven’t gotten to Hallasan yet, I have been to Jeju’s other famous climbing spot (twice). That spot is Seongsan Ilchulbong, or Sunrise Peak. This is far from a mountain, at just 182m (597 feet) high, but it’s not the height that brings people here- it’s the view. The cliff looks over the island of Jeju and out across the ocean. One side of the cliff is climbable while all other sides end in a steep drop into the sea. The crater at the top was formed by a volcanic eruption five thousand years ago, and it’s made of black volcanic rocks that jut up in ragged, sharp edges. The top is a bowl shape. The secondary name, Sunrise Peak, is because this is considered the place to watch the sunrise of New Year’s Day (Lunar calendar version). I’ve never been there for sunrise, but the view is beautiful on a wet foggy day, so I guess it would be stunning.
I got to see Sunrise Peak both times I went to Jeju, and I only climbed it the one time. The first time I went to Jeju, I was injured. The week before, I had sprained the muscles in my foot at Mudfest, and I was still limping. There would be no hiking for me on that trip, even if my travel mates were determined to do it. Instead, I was going to be left at the bottom to wait. Thankfully, there was a small, rocky beach (that was more than a little wild looking) where there was room enough for me to take a seat and read while my friends climbed. It was a beautiful day, one perfect for just relaxing outside (much better than hiking in that heat, in my opinion). There wasn’t a cloud in the blue sky, the water was made the black, pokey rocks shimmered just a little bit, and the green on the bluff above was a stark contrast to the water and sky. It was a good couple of hours relaxing, but I was still disappointed that I couldn’t climb. That’s why, on my second trip, I made my way back to Sunrise Peak for attempt number two.
Sadly, the second time around, it was not a beautiful day. It was a damp, cool, grey day, and it was raining off and on every fifteen minutes. Temperature wise, it was much better, but then rain made it just a little more treacherous. The hike up to the top isn’t difficult, per say (and there are stairs that help you along), but it is steep. It’s also one way, up and down, so it can get crowded. On my rainy day climb there were less people, but the stairs could also be slightly more slippery. It’s more of a you might have to pick your poison type choice, if you’re limited in the time you have available to climb. I had a few hours, so climbing in the mist and drizzle it was.
The trail going up isn’t a straight one- it goes up in a kind of vaguely curved shape. There’s a tall set of steep stairs, followed by wide corner landings, though these were just flattened out rock/gravel/dirt, not wood. They were wide enough that you could take a step off the walking path to rest, meaning you don’t have to feel rushed because you’re impeding traffic. I personally took advantage of quite a few of those rest stops. I am a big fan of landings like this, and not only to rest. When I go on hikes, I don’t want to rush. I want to go at my own pace, and not only because I want to avoid wearing myself out. I want to enjoy myself and take it all in. I now live in a city just outside Seoul- being able to enjoy nature isn’t exactly an everyday occurrence. I want to really experience it, especially the views. And man, did Sunrise Peak have a view.
When you turn around and look over the landscape in front of you, you’re seeing the seaside and the rocky, steep coast along it. There’s a small scattering of buildings, some at the base of the cliff (many of them seafood restaurants, full of fresh from the sea life and getting nowhere near my mouth) and others vaguely village shaped far away. If you look to your far side, you see kilometers of endless sea. When I was up there, it was windy and choppy, dark grey with the white streaks where the waves broke. As much as the climbing would have been better with nicer weather, I must admit the rough weather sea aesthetic was so appealing to look over. Aesthetic will get me every time. I’m a sucker for setting the scene in an interesting way, be it in my fiction or real life.
My one regret about the rough waters was that it took away the chance to see one of Jeju’s most famous sights, the Haenyeo, AKA the mermaids. I’m going to keep you in suspense about what I’m talking about to give you some background about the traditional Jeju culture. Since Jeju wasn’t already part of Korea and was kept separate from the mainland even when it was taken over (for a long time, people from Jeju weren’t allowed to leave the island area and were barred from mainland Korea). Korea controlled it, and did send people there to change things up, but it’s not easy to do away with traditional culture (and thank God for that in most cases), and a lot of Jeju’s was different. One of the main ways was through gender roles. While traditional Korea was extremely Confucius in nature (rigid gender roles, where men are the dominant and women had to be extremely subservient), Jeju was extremely female driven. Compared to many places, even today, was more egalitarian. In many ways, it was downright matriarchal (not that I’m claiming a sexism free society by any means). The main shamanic religious traditions (which are no longer at the top, but still very popular with Jeju natives- shrines still dot the island) was very female oriented. The ones who did the ceremonies and practices were priestesses. Women had a much more fluid and bendable place, which brings me back to the Haenyeo. Given this is an island, it should come as no surprise that the sea is a huge part of the economy. Along with fishing, there were divers who went for the shellfish (predominately abalone). It can be a dangerous job, with tides and currents as they are, and divers were originally men. After Korea took over, they started taxing the catch these men took in. As with every person ever, these guys hated paying taxes and wanted to find ways out of it. It took a long time to figure out, but eventually a clever soul realized that the language of the law said it would only tax what men brought in. The solution? Bring on the female divers of Jeju, the Haenyeo.
So, these women were (and are) amazing. In the beginning, they were dropped off in the water wearing only thin cotton. These days, they have rubber wet suits, a scuba mask, and flippers. In both times, that’s all they had, save the basket they took down with them. They have no air tanks of any kind. These women must be able to hold their breath while they scavenge through the rocks for shells. It’s because of these women that the economy was female driven for a long time and why gender roles pulled a 180 degree (men stayed home with the kids while the wives went out to work as breadwinners). While the economy (and gender politics) have changed all these years later, the mermaids are still out there diving. The biggest difference now? There are far fewer now (other, less physically dangerous, opportunities are easily available), and most of them are elderly. As a few years ago, the oldest of the divers was ninety (and may now be retired), and fifty tends to be on the lower end. Just think of that- these little old ladies are out there every day the sea is calm, free diving in order to make ends meet. They are swimming constantly, straining their lungs and risking every sea-based disaster. These are probably some of the most badass people I have ever heard of, and I am disappointed that I didn’t catch a glimpse of them (they do dive around Sunrise Peak, but don’t risk rough waves), especially since it’s a dying art. Fewer and fewer young women are following in their matriarchs’ flippers, so as these current Haenyeo have to retire their wet suits, it looks like the profession will fade away into memory (and maybe even legend, if I’m being as over dramatic as usual). It’s a reality happening all over traditional professions such as this, and it’s more than a little sad. While I will always support someone’s desire to buck tradition and make their own path, that doesn’t mean I can’t accept that something of worth -something that adds to the wonderful diversity of our world- is being lost. Before I end on that depressing note, let’s turn it around for now. For now, these mermaids are going strong out there, making their living on the sea, adding to Jeju’s history of strong women. May we all be so amazing when we reach their age.
I don’t have a great segue to get back on topic of the hike itself, so let’s just awkwardly do that. At the time I climbed, I’d say I was in upper-middle shape, and I was able to climb to the top in around an hour. On my scale, I’d say Sunrise Peak is about medium difficulty. Not exactly a walk in the park, but not something you need actual training for. When you get to the top, there’s another small, shallow crater, but there’s not a lot you can explore. You’re not allowed to walk around the crater or rim but are instead restricted to a large fenced in deck. It’s mostly about the view (as I’ve previously established, it’s totally a worthwhile view), though there is also a signpost at the top that names the peak and the height, perfect for photos, if that’s your thing (and it’s totally my thing). I stayed up there for maybe fifteen minutes. I sat down for a bit to rest, drink some water, and then spent some time leaning over the fence and looking at the water, before I had to head back down to catch the bus. The trip down took about half an hour to twenty-five minutes without as many breaks.
The question to ask now is was Sunrise Peak worth the hype? I think it was. It was great exercise that came with excellent scenery. It was a good trip, especially in the sun, and I agree with the tourism board’s decision to use Sunrise Peak in all their advertising (including their bid for Jeju to be one of the New Seven Wonders of the World).
With that, we’re going to jump back to that sunny day on my first trip. After my friends finished their hike and met me down at the bottom, we jumped on a bus to head to our next location. About a twenty-minute drive along the coast we got off in order to catch a ferry to Udo Island. Udo Island is this tiny island just off the coast (it’s a quick ten to fifteen minute trip on the ferry). It’s hilly, with another rocky shore surrounded by nice sandy beaches. It’s not insanely populated, but there are people that live there, and a lot of them deal with the tourists like me, who come over to the island to have some sort of good time.
I’m going to level with you- Udo was a disappointment. I wasn’t particularly keen on going in the first place, but everyone said we just had to go. I’m not sure why, when the most interesting thing about the whole place was the fact the name means ‘cow island’ because it’s shaped like a cow lying down (it made me snort, okay?). Don’t get me wrong- the parts of the island I saw were beautiful. The beach was all golden sand, perfect blue water, and an excellent place to sunbathe. However, it wasn’t any better than the other beaches I saw on Jeju. The only thing of note was there was a statue of a Haenyeo on it, which the fangirl in me squeed at, but that’s it. There were rock pools around where the ferry docked, but again, I’d end up visiting another beach a couple of days later that was the same. Don’t get me wrong- it was nice, but not worth going out of your way for.
And to be fair to Udo, the disappointment wasn’t all on it. One of the highlights of the island is renting a scooter and going around on your own to see the sights (there is a bus that also goes around). That is what we went there for, but it didn’t happen. We went to the first place and they told all of us (even the ones who had no plans to drive, like me) needed an international license. This was news to all of us, because no one had mentioned that before, so we decided to try another one. The next one wasn’t just an international license, but a Korean one. Now, don’t get me wrong- I 100% understand why they’d, at the least, request an international license. It makes sense for a safety and liability issue, and I’d prefer people with actual driving experience on the road. What gets me it that, when talking to others since then, it seems to be a crapshoot if you got IDd or not. One friend only had to show their American license, and another didn’t get asked at all. It apparently depends on the day or mood of the person you’re trying to rent from, and the lack of consistency is irritating.
Without any wheels, we just walked from the docks to the beach about ten minutes away. We stopped so we could get lunch at one of the restaurants there. While we didn’t get to go to that one, I am amused to inform you there was an Anne of Green Gables themed burger place. We stayed at the restaurant we chose for maybe an hour and then went back to catch the ferry to head to our last stop of the day, and thankfully I had a better time there than I did on Udo.
Kimnyoung Maze Park is a place I went on both my trips to Jeju. It’s a hedge maze park located on the north west side of the island, just a little inland from the coast. It’s a fairly large park, with the usual several feet tall green banks that made the twisty, turny walls. It’s 2,200 metres squared, with bridges you have to find and cross until you reach the platform that leads to the exit. There’s a bell up there to ring once you’ve reached the end to give you a sense of accomplishment, and it’s high enough that you can see the people finishing (to either taunt or motivate you, depending on the person). It’s a tough maze to get through, which isn’t surprising when you find out it was designed by a famous maze designer, named Adrian Fisher. The hedges are shaped into six symbols that represent Jeju: the shape of the island itself, a pony, a snake head, a dolmen (a traditional burial symbol), a yin yang symbol, and a ship. You obviously can’t tell as you’re running around inside, but you can make out the shapes when looking at a map (and they give you a brochure with a map when you go in, in case you just want to get out. I’m happy to report I didn’t use it).
The first time I went to the park, I only tried the maze for about ten minutes before I went back out the exit. My foot was throbbing, and I just wanted to sit. Thankfully there were plenty of places to go and do just that. There was a lovely, spacious garden with benches where you could sit, and some of the strangest hedge sculptures I’ve ever seen (I still can’t figure out what they’re meant to be). I waited there until all my friends made it out. The second time, I’m happy to report I was one of the 65% to complete the maze (the first time I was in the 30% who just gave up. Thankfully I avoided being in the 5% that had to be ‘rescued’ for being so hopefully lost). Now there are two ways to tackle a hedge maze: the first is to focus completely and keep track of every turn you make, and the second is to rush around aimlessly, hoping to get lucky. I started out being the first, eventually gave up, and fell back on the second. My wandering was pretty aimless, and I certainly didn’t win the ‘first one to ring the bell wins a prize’ competition in my group. I tried to go at it on my own, but by the time a handful of my group had gotten to the bell, I was really to combine forces with some other hapless adventurers. There were about five or six of us who came together in the middle of the maze, and without any spoken agreement, we started moving together. It didn’t take us long from there, and with only a few hints called out from one of the bridges, and we were up on that platform, ringing that bell on our own. Mission accomplished, and thus our grand hedge maze adventure came to an end. Roll credits and epic music to end the scene.
Kimnyoung Maze Park isn’t a must do in Jeju, but it was a lot of fun. If you’re there yourself, it’s maybe not your best bet, but if you’re there with a fun group of people who just want to have a silly, simple time running around, this is the place for you. It’s a good time and a bit of a challenge/competition. Oh, and it’s also a cat sanctuary, so if you’re a cat lover, you’re in luck. If I had to give a set of recommendations based on all the places I went on day two, it would go like this: Sunrise Peak is a must see, Udo is a skip it, and Kimnyoung Maze Park is a go to if you have a good group and the time.
